Thursday, September 24, 2009

This Place Never Gets Old

A short and sweet observation I made last weekend: Ben's Chili Bowl never, ever gets old. I don't care if you're not even craving it--if you're up on U st., it is practically an obligation to get Ben's.

The decor hasn't changed in 50 years, and neither has the food. I know, I know, this place is a legend, I'm practically doing a disservice by blogging about them, yada yada. But there is nothing as comforting as a good chili dog, smothered in mustard with a side of chili cheese fries. It's more of a disservice if I don't sing their praises. The vegetarian chili is even as good as the meat chili! I implore and urge anyone who hasn't already tried Ben's to go out right now and get a chili dog or a half-smoke. I castigate any self-respecting D.C. resident who hasn't tried Ben's yet! Hell, even if you're a vegetarian, break your vow of non-carnivorous behavior and go out and get some. You won't be disappointed.

Best Seafood Place in Town

Each year I wait for Washingtonian's 100 Best Restaurants list, and each year I sigh with disappointment that Kinkead's is near the top of the list, when frankly, you can do much better than Kinkead's for seafood. So allow me to suggest an alternative to the big fish in the school of DC seafood locales: DC Coast.

Back when I first moved to DC for college, a dear friend suggested DC Coast as a place to take visiting relatives. Knowing this man had good taste, I decided to give it a whirl. Now, it's a family favorite. One of the best things about DC Coast is that it's consistent--the food there is always good.

I dined there a week or so ago and as usual was pleased from start to finish. The service is usually impeccable and they offer nice touches that put a smile on your face (ie: the little plastic mermaid sitting on the rim of my martini, the tiny shortbread cookies that come with coffee and chocolate dipped mints that come with the check).

One of the interesting things at DC Coast is that the menu does change with the seasons, but in a way that your favorite dish will usually still be on the menu, just with some slight adjustments and new flavors. For example, the last time I went, the menu offered fried oysters with buffalo sauce and a bleu cheese sauce, a great combination. Currently, on their menu they offer fried Chesapeake oysters with a tomato jam, horseradish, chives coulis and capers. The current fried oyster dish has a coating that's very much like the breading on calamari--light and crunchy. While you can't really taste much horseradish (in fact, I didn't notice horseradish was in the dish until I looked back at the menu), the chives coulis is subtle, while the tomato jam is stronger in flavor and tastes a bit like sun dried tomatoes. Another appetizer favorite of mine there is the tuna tartare. Unlike the traditional tuna tartare that can be just like eating plain sashimi, DC Coast's tuna has a lime juice and coconut milk dressing on it, coupled with chopped red onions. The presentation is superb for this dish--the tartare is served in half a coconut on ice, garnished with lime and red onion slices. The tartness of the lime along with the bite from the red onion make a great and flavorful combination.

For entrees, I've tried several over the last three years. Despite DC Coast being a seafood establishment, the steak entrees they've had in the past have always been outstanding. Most recently though, I tried the Maine dayboat scallops. In the past, DC coast has done an oxtail topping with the scallops, which was very tasty and was almost like bits of a tender pot roast draped over the scallops. On the current menu, DC Coast serves three plump and lightly seared scallops with roasted corn, Applewood bacon and chanterelle mushrooms. The corn was slightly sweet, and was perfectly complemented by the smokiness of the bacon bits in the sauce/"summer truffle emulsion." For those of you with eyes bigger than your stomache (like me), fear not! Three scallops are plenty--and plenty rich.

By the time dessert rolls around you'll probably be stuffed. I don't lie--DC Coast is good from start to finish, so dessert is a must. My personal favorite are their warm beignets. For those of you unfamiliar with New Orleans cuisine, beignets are like little doughnuts---only better, lighter and less greasy. DC Coast has served them with light powdered sugar before, and currently serves them with a decadent, rich and smooth "chicory coffee creme anglaise" (props to those who catch why chicory goes with beignets. Cafe Du Monde, anyone?). This past time I was there I tried one of their specials: an almond and fig tart. The tart was a big dry to me; nonetheless the presentation was good, but simple, and the figs were deliciously baked right into the tart, making them sweeter and tender.

Phew, you must be sharing my food-itis after reading this long post.

If you like what you get at DC Coast, try some of their other sister restaurants: TenPenh, Ceiba and Acadiana. I have yet to go there, but have no fear foodies, they're on my list and I'll be happy to forge the path for you and try them first. Until then, "fork it up" at DC Coast.

PS - If anyone's tried their soft shell crab, holler at this foodie about it, as I was dying to try it but didn't have the chance to!

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Summer may be coming to an end...

But just because Labor Day came and went, doesn't mean your cravings for an ice cream cone have subsided. One of my favorite places to go in DC after any meal is Larry's in Dupont Circle. A friend told me about this place long ago and swore it was the best ice cream he had ever had. Naturally, I was curious and had to find out more for myself.

As a sidenote, while I was doing a little research online about Larry's, I discovered the story behind the ice cream shop. Turns out Larry's actually began as a cookie business, and has several locations throughout the city, though I haven't tried the other ones. Must be why the cinnamon cookie dough is so good. Apparently, they've even supplied cookies to Starbucks and Nordstroms!

Amidst the current craze of "fro-yo" places popping up all over DC, Larry's is a refreshing reminder of what a frozen dessert should really be: homemade ice cream. Nothing low-fat, and as the sign on the menu indicates at Larry's, if the flavor says it's made with alcohol, it's made with ALCOHOL.

The great thing about Larry's is that there is a wide range of flavors. Sure, you can get your traditional chocolate and vanilla varieties, but Larry's has been in business for over 20 years (take note of the pictures on their wall of the parlor's history), and in that time they've figured out how to come up with unique flavors. A few that I would personally recommend are the cinnamon cookie dough, crazy praline and Fred and Ginger. Firstly, their cinnamon cookie dough, really is unlike any other cookie dough ice cream I've ever had--mainly because it has HUGE chunks of cookie dough in it. The prices are a little steep, but I'm willing to pay five bucks for a medium ice cream in a cup when they're giving me that much cookie dough. Crazy praline is delicious; one of the more creamier flavors with chunks of pecans coated in a sugary mixture (that's the praline, obviously). And then lastly, Fred and Ginger is an interesting mix of bits of peaches and ginger swirled into a creamy, vanilla-like ice cream. Usually, you really can't go wrong with any of the flavors there. If you're feeling a little more adventurous, try their green tea ice cream which is amazing.

Now for a place so wonderful, there are two drawbacks you might encounter. The first is the price. Don't choke on a praline chunk when your order gets rung up at the register--the ice cream is a little pricey. But it's much better than the artificially flavored frozen goo you'll find at some ice cream establishments. Second, according to some the service can be a little...shall we say, rude? For whatever New York attitude Loeb's was lacking my last review, Larry's makes up for it. But really, if you want to avoid what some have referred to as the "scoop Nazi" treatment, just follow this simple rule: don't dawdle. If you don't know what you want, say you don't know, and allow them to move on to the next person in line and come back to you. The commentary can be somewhat crass, but in my experience, I've always had a good laugh at Larry's. If you don't take it too seriously and are polite, you'll be fine. And you might even get a little scoop of a different flavor thrown in for free.

So while the sun is still out and keeping the District slightly toasty, head over to Larry's and enjoy a cup of ice cream next to the Dupont fountain. You'll be glad you got your last frozen fix before fall sets in.

Friday, September 11, 2009

There's a Reason NY Delis are in NY

Back again, foodies.

I finally tried one of the several DC lunch establishments that touts itself as a "New York Deli." Unfortunately, Loeb's New York Deli, located near McPherson Square, didn't cut it for me. Don't get me wrong, their sandwiches are good, but I'm a Jersey girl, and Jersey and New York City have invented and perfected the delicatessen. Running a good deli is something of an art where I come from. When I'm back home, I will actually drive 35 minutes to go to my favorite deli, because it's just that good. DC has "sandwich places," New York has delis. NY delis work because of their cultural ties to populations of Italian and Jewish immigrants; DC doesn't really have those communities or neighborhoods, and thus, our delis here have suffered. I applaud the efforts of people who try to transplant such delis to DC...but I'm still waiting to find an authentic NY deli in the District.

Walking in, Loeb's certainly has captured a bit of the "feel" of a New York deli. You won't feel like you're stepping into an episode of Seinfeld, but it's got the deli tables, kosher condiments, and from what I've heard the slightly "rude" NYC demeanor (though I didn't experience that when I went).

I tried two sandwiches there: the BLT and their roast beef sandwich. I will say the roast beef was tasty--not fatty, medium rare and there was a substantial amount of meat on the sandwich. NY Delis are somewhat infamous for having sandwiches that are practically as big as your head--I've been places where you have to take meat and toppings off of the sandwich because there's just too much and your jaw can't handle such a feat. Loeb's strikes a good balance, but doesn't conform to the true New Yorker style of really loading up the sandwich so you feel like you got what you paid for.

The BLT was a little bit of a let down. Biting into the sandwich, I tasted mostly lettuce and tomato, and not nearly enough bacon. Four strips of thin bacon? If I have to look for the bacon when my sandwich is sliced in half, that's not enough. That being said, the bacon was cooked well--not burnt and not undercooked or fatty.

Another aspect that lost me was that Loeb's elected to use shredded lettuce. Subway uses shredded lettuce. Real delis have leafy, crunchy lettuce. BLTs work best with a Boston or Bibb lettuce variety. Heck, I'll even take Romaine! But shredded lettuce that reminds me more of cole slaw isn't what I want on my sandwich.

Sandwiches are moderately priced, though some "special" ones can be up to $8 or $9. However, they don't come with chips and the accompanying pickle is good, but again, not a true, New York, kosher, dill pickle.

Lastly, while you can probably get a good and simple pastrami or roast beef sandwich there, Loeb's is not very innovative. They've got the classics on their menu, but even the classic delis of New York will offer a twist every now and then. It doesn't have to be complicated, but a horseradish spread instead of plain mayonaisse would go a long way on a roast beef sandwich. Roasted chicken sandwiches, tuna melts, reubens, and even some salami and bologna aren't complicated and should be somewhere on the menu, but they aren't at Loeb's. Perhaps you can ask for these items not listed on the menu, though that doesn't make sense to me.

The verdict: give Loeb's a try if you're in the neighborhood and want a quick bite (though the line is usually so long there's nothing quick about getting a sandwich there), but don't make it your standby lunch-time eatery. In the meantime, I'll be continuing my quest for a true New York deli south of the Mason-Dixon line.