Restaurant Review: El Centro D.F.

 

I had been to El Centro D.F. when it first opened for a big media dinner back in the late Spring. While I had loved the dark, stone-encapsulated atmosphere and the open rooftop, I was less than thrilled about the food the first go-around. So when I got a second invitation to check it out, I figured I had nothing to lose. Six months or so later, I have to say the restaurant has greatly improved. 

To start, I ordered the flowery and sweet "lavanda" cocktail. It was refreshing, though I'm big on lavender flavor which I thought the drink could have used a little more of. The El Centro margarita, however, was perfection--the right amount of tart lime to balance the tequila and the salted rim. The margarita was so good I kind of wanted to steal my friend's cocktail for the rest of dinner. Along with cocktails, my friend Tony and I split the grilled skirt steak huaraches, a light corn-based flatbread with steak, mexican cheeses and cilantro. The waitress described it as a sort of twist on steak and cheese. The tender, slightly spicy steak went well with the creamy cheese sauce that really made the dish. 

Steak Huaraches

For dinner, we both swapped some of the chicken zarape and the tacos al pastor. I'm a huge fan of pork shoulder and the spice of the adobo marinade on the pork in the tacos went really well with the sweetness of the pineapple and zing of the white onion. Perhaps a little more grilled pineapple might have enhanced the tacos, but overall they were a highlight of the meal. The textures in the chicken zarape dish really stood out--creamy sauce and silky avocados with the crunch of bacon and tomatoes. Maybe it's the bacon-obsessed food editor in me, but I thought the dish should have had a few more bits of bacon in the sauce to add extra flavor and crunch. The creamy rice and refried beans that came with the chicken zarape rounded out the whole dish. Both the steak huaraches and the chicken zarape dishes did a good job of using cheese or creamy sauces to compliment the spice in the dish.

Even if tequila isn't your liquor of choice, definitely get a small glass to sip as an after-dinner drink. The staff and bartenders can steer you in the right direction if you're not entirely sure of what you're looking for. I tried a smidge of the mezcal reposado illegal which was pleasantly smoky and will warm you from head to toe.

Tacos al pastor

Chicken Zarape

The service was friendly and attentive, and our waitress knew the menu well which scores bonus points in my book. However, as our meal concluded up close to 10 PM, we were brought the check with no mention of dessert. Even though I understand the restaurant was starting to wrap up for the night since they close at 11 PM and frankly, I don't think I could have even fit in dessert, I kind of wanted to compare the tres leches cake from the first time to this second experience. Still, the service was prompt and completely on point throughout the meal.

If you're looking for Mexican food in the city that doesn't fall flat and isn't the tried and tired burrito, El Centro D.F. is a great option. The food is flavorful, savory and filling. And the tequila list is long. Check out dinner in the taqueria or tequileria, or sip cocktails on the enclosed rooftop which is open all year-long.

Disclosure: I was invited to dine at El Centro as a member of the media, and this meal was complimentary.

Take a bite: www.bonappetitfoodie.com.