Restaurant Review: Graffiato

Pork Belly with Cannelini Beans at Graffiato
Photo by Marissa Bialecki

I'll admit that with this food writing side gig, I can fall prey to acting jaded sometimes. That's not to say I'm not grateful for the opportunity to meet chefs around the city or eat fantastic food. It's just that with all the eating I get to do, it makes it a little harder to leave an impression on me. But Graffiato is one of those restaurants that talks the talk and walks the walk; the food is always incredible and six months after it first opened the place is still relentlessly packed every night of the week.

In the summertime I was all about the sweet corn agnolotti. And in my more recent trips to the restaurant there have been a number of dishes that have left a lasting memory on my palate. In one of my big "gets" for the year over at We Love DC, I scored an interview with Mike Isabella for my Capital Chefs column. It was one of the best interviews I got to do all year. Isabella is a very personable, friendly guy and I don't just think that because we're both from New Jersey and we both put pepperoni in our sauces (I owe that one to my grandma).

One of the best dishes I had at Graffiato was the crispy brussel sprouts with maple, pancetta and egg. The brussel sprouts were soft on the inside, but had nicely carmelized outer edges. The carmelization of the outer leaves along with the sweetness of maple syrup and the saltiness of the pancetta were a fantastic combination. Though I tend to lean in the direction of the meat dishes, this particular dish really stole the show for me. If brussel sprouts aren't your thing (though this dish might convince you otherwise), go with the charred potatoes--a simple dish that finishes off the potatoes with lemon, parsley and parmesan. And if you're a pork fanatic, you'll love Isabella's take on "pork and beans" with a rough cannelini bean puree and pork belly.


Mike Isabella of Graffiato
Photo by Marissa Bialecki

 The other favorite was one that I got to try after interviewing Mike: the roasted potato gnocchi with black truffles and wild mushrooms. Hands down, this was probably the best dish I ate in all of 2011. Black truffles could probably make the bottom of your shoe taste good. But this dish didn't rest its laurels on the truffles. The rich buttery sauce with the soft gnocchi along with the crispy truffle flakes on top were in a word, heavenly. So often dishes with trendy ingredients, such as truffles, can be executed poorly or lazily. But the gnocchi were the perfect consistency and this dish was incredibly flavorful and rich.

There are two other dishes I consistently make sure to order when I head to Graffiato: the burrata and a pizza. I've been known to consume mini burratas by myself in one sitting. And those creamy curds that ooze out of the burrata at Graffiato are not to be missed. In the summer, I had a pizza with prosciutto and honey that was an incredible mix of salty and sweet. The Porky's Revenge pizza with sopressata, pepperoni, sausage and stracciatella is perfect for the meat lover. The crust is thin, and the pizza is flavorful but not overly salty from all that cured meat. While the pizza's got more of an artisanal feel that the run of the mill slice in New Jersey, Mike has the thin crust down .

For dessert, the chocolate tart is a great choice, though I will say that I wasn't crazy about the sea salt gelato. The zeppoles, on the other hand, are delicious and far lighter than anything I've eaten on the boardwalk at the Jersey shore. They're not too sweet, but they'll satisfy that dessert craving after dinner, if you happen to have room.

If you haven't already been to Graffiato, go and go fast. I'd definitely advise you to make a reservation. If this restaurant is any indication, his Mexican small plates concept in Georgetown, Bandolero, should be just as amazing. 

Take a bite: www.bonappetitfoodie.com.